The Week Magazine recently gave glowing praise, pulling here and there from
The Post-Gazette, to Kevin Sousa's new Salt of the Earth restaurant in Garfield. Unfortunately,
The Week requires a subscription to view its contents, but fortunately for you
Pop City is running what they wrote below:
"This bold new spot has "permanently altered the expectations for what a
restaurant, and a singular chef, can accomplish in Pittsburgh," said
China Millman in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Kevin Sousa, who made his
name creating "experimental" fare for a very small dining room at a
downtown hotel, has fully lived up to the grand expectations that grew
as he readied his modern and airy new space. There are several styles of
seating available, but you'll want to sit at the high stools along the
counter overlooking the kitchen: They give you the "best possible view"
of the inventive ways that Sousa and his staff combine "cutting-edge and
classical techniques." Octopus tendrils are slow-cooked and then
browned, resulting in textures that are "fluffy and creamy, with crisp,
almost caramelized edges." Sweetbreads with crisp edges are perfect for
"mopping up" a fenugreek gravy, which calls to mind a finely spiced
Indian curry. Combine all this with the top-notch service, and Sousa and
his team have created a dining experience that was well worth waiting
for. Salt of the Earth is "both daring and comforting," both
"challenging and welcoming." 5523 Penn Ave., (412) 441-7258"
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